Understanding Toxic Clothing
When it comes to our wardrobes, many of us are looking beyond style and price—seeking clothing that’s safer both for our bodies and for the environment. Yet navigating certifications, fabric choices, and brands’ ethical claims can feel overwhelming. Below is a complete guide to help you spot truly nontoxic clothing, understand key certifications, and avoid the worst offenders in the apparel industry.
1. Why Nontoxic Clothing Matters
Conventional clothing manufacturing can involve harsh chemicals, including formaldehyde, azo dyes, and heavy metals that can linger on fabrics and potentially irritate skin or disrupt hormonal balance over time. By choosing nontoxic clothing:
- You reduce your exposure to chemicals.
- You support ethical, environmentally sound production methods.
- You encourage the fashion industry to shift toward healthier and more sustainable practices.
2. Which Fabrics to Buy (and Which to Avoid)
Best Fabric Choices
1. Organic Cotton
- Grown without synthetic pesticides and fertilizers.
- Look for labels like **GOTS-certified** (Global Organic Textile Standard) to ensure organic standards and lower chemical residues.
2. Linen (Flax)
- Made from the flax plant, often requires fewer pesticides and less water.
- Naturally breathable, durable, and biodegradable.
3. Hemp
- Grows quickly with minimal water or pesticides.
- Strong, breathable, and naturally resistant to mildew.
- Important Note: While Hemp is often considered eco-friendly, some manufacturers may cut corners and use harsh chemicals. To be sure, look for certifications (e.g., GOTS, OEKO-TEX, or bluesign®) or brands that explicitly detail their production processes.
4. Tencel (Lyocell)
- Made from sustainably sourced wood pulp (often eucalyptus) in a closed-loop process that **recycles** water and solvents.
- Known for softness, breathability, and low environmental impact.
- Important Note: While lyocell is often considered eco-friendly, some manufacturers may cut corners and use harsh chemicals. To be sure, look for certifications (e.g., GOTS, OEKO-TEX, or bluesign®) or brands that explicitly detail their production processes.
Fabrics to Approach with Caution
1. Conventional Cotton
- Cotton crops use a large amount of pesticides, unless certified organic.
- Dyeing processes can involve formaldehyde or heavy metals if not responsibly managed.
2. Polyester & Synthetics (Nylon, Acrylic, etc.)
- Derived from petrochemicals; can shed microplastics into waterways when washed.
- Often treated with additional chemicals to achieve specific finishes (anti-wrinkle, stain-resistant).
3. Bamboo / Rayon from Bamboo
- While bamboo itself is a fast-growing, renewable resource, turning it into fabric often involves the viscose process, which uses harsh chemicals like carbon disulfide and sodium hydroxide.
- If you’re shopping for bamboo clothing, look for certifications (e.g., OEKO-TEX, bluesign®) or check if the brand uses a closed-loop process to reduce chemical impact.
4. Rayon/Viscose (Non-Closed Loop)
- Although made from natural cellulose, conventional rayon production often involves toxic chemicals and can be environmentally harmful.
- More eco-friendly forms of rayon (e.g., lyocell, modal) follow cleaner processing methods.
3. Understanding GOTS, OEKO-TEX®, and bluesign®
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
- Ensures that at least 70% of fibers are organic.
- Prohibits toxic chemicals (e.g., azo dyes, formaldehyde, heavy metals).
- Requires meeting environmental and social criteria (fair working conditions, wastewater treatment, etc.).
- Cost Note: Getting a full GOTS certification can cost thousands of dollars annually, especially once you factor in inspections across multiple facilities. This is a significant barrier for small brands—even if they use organically grown cotton, they might not be able to afford the official label.
OEKO-TEX® Standard 100
- Tests for harmful substances like pesticides, heavy metals, phthalates, and formaldehyde.
- Ensures the final product meets stringent human-ecological requirements.
- Does not necessarily mean fibers are organic, but it does indicate lower levels of residual chemicals in the final garment.
- Cost Note: Brands pay for comprehensive testing and an annual licensing fee, which can range from $1,500 to $3,500+ per product category.
bluesign®
- Focuses on the entire textile supply chain, from raw materials to finished product.
- Sets rigorous standards to reduce resource consumption and eliminate harmful substances.
- Certifies factories for sustainable and safe production, ensuring less chemical impact on workers and the environment.
- Important Caveat: Some companies produce garments in GOTS, OEKO-TEX, or bluesign®-certified mills but don’t pay for certification on their end. This can result in genuinely clean clothing without the official certification label.
4. Brands with the Worst Practices
Despite widespread coverage of ethical concerns, certain brands continue to prioritize ultra-fast fashion, often at the expense of both workers and consumers’ health. A few notorious offenders include:
Shein
- Known for extremely low prices and vast turnover of trendy garments.
- Multiple investigations have found concerning levels of chemicals (including lead) in some products, along with exploitative labor practices.
- Lack of transparency in supply chain management and environmental impact.
Amazon’s Third-Party Clothing Sellers
- Beyond Amazon’s own lines, many third-party brands selling on the platform disclose little to no information on fabric or sourcing.
- These sellers often operate under the same ultra-fast fashion model—churning out cheap clothing with minimal oversight.
Other Ultra-Fast Fashion Retailers
- Romwe, Zaful, Boohoo, PrettyLittleThing, Missguided—all are frequently called out for cheap, mass-produced garments with unknown or dubious manufacturing standards.
- Deep discounts and rapid style turnover often come at the expense of fair labor, environmental protection, and safe chemical use.
5. Activewear & Phthalates: Brands to Watch Out For
In recent years, Mamavation (a consumer advocacy group) tested popular activewear brands for chemicals like phthalates, which are endocrine disruptors that can harm hormone balance and reproductive health. According to Mamavation’s studies, several major brands had concerning levels of phthalates in leggings, sports bras, or other workout gear.
Brands that performed poorly in these studies often included big names in the budget- to mid-range category. Specific lists can change as new collections are tested, so it’s advisable to check Mamavation’s latest report or other consumer watchdog updates.
What to do: Opt for activewear brands that voluntarily test for harmful chemicals or are OEKO-TEX® or GOTS® certified. If you’re unsure, reach out to customer service and inquire about their testing and chemical management policies. Aktiiv, Mate the Label, and Namarie are cleaner activewear brands.
6. Additional Tips for a Well-Rounded Nontoxic Closet
Wash Before Wearing
- Laundering new clothes can help remove residual dyes, sizing chemicals, or finishing agents.
- Use fragrance-free, eco-friendly detergents to avoid reintroducing chemicals.
Consider Secondhand
- Thrift stores, consignment shops, or online resale platforms (e.g., Poshmark, Depop) can be great for vintage or gently used garments.
- Secondhand clothes often have lower chemical residue because they’ve been washed multiple times.
Watch Out for Performance Finishes
- Stain resistance, wrinkle-free, or odor-control fabrics can come with extra chemical treatments. If you value performance features, seek those with bluesign® or OEKO-TEX® designations indicating safer processes.
Support Smaller, Transparent Brands
- Many ethical, smaller labels are doing everything right—sourcing organic materials, paying fair wages—but can’t afford official certifications.
- Ask for details on fabric origins, factory locations, or lab test results. Good brands will happily share.
Check for Real Sustainability Reporting
- Look for brand pages detailing water usage, carbon footprints, fair trade wages, or philanthropic initiatives.
- Be wary of greenwashing where vague terms like “eco-friendly” or “responsible” are unsubstantiated by data or third-party verifications.
The Cost of Going Green
Certifications: Paying for GOTS, OEKO-TEX®, or bluesign® can cost thousands of dollars in annual fees and inspections—one reason smaller ethical brands might forgo official seals.
Higher Price Tags: Organic cotton and eco-friendly materials can be pricier to produce. However, they often last longer and carry fewer hidden costs (like environmental damage or health risks).
Conclusion
Building a nontoxic, eco-conscious wardrobe is about quality over quantity, seeking out trusted certifications (or thorough brand transparency), and avoiding notoriously harmful fast-fashion giants. While the process might require more research—and potentially a slightly higher price tag—the benefits include safer fabrics against your skin, support for more ethical supply chains, and a reduced environmental footprint.
Key Takeaways
- Favor organic fibers (cotton, linen, hemp, Tencel) and scrutinize bamboo or lyocell production methods.
- Look for (or inquire about) GOTS, OEKO-TEX®, bluesign®, or other credible certifications.
- Exercise caution with ultra-fast fashion sellers like Shein or unregulated third-party Amazon clothing shops.
- Watch for phthalates in activewear—consult consumer advocacy groups for the latest findings.
- Smaller brands may be just as clean or cleaner than big labels—even if they can’t afford certification.
- Ultimately, vote with your wallet by choosing apparel that aligns with your health and environmental values. With each conscious purchase, you help shape a more responsible, transparent fashion industry.