Ingredients Deep Dive: Lip Products
The amount of lip gloss I’ve eaten throughout my life is likely disturbing. It was my favorite category of makeup. I also had no idea most lip product bases are made out of petroleum derived ingredients.
When I shop for lip products I am looking for 4 main things: what base they use (petroleum or a natural base like shea or castor oil), colorants, fragrance / aroma, and what preservative is used (usually at the end of the ingredients list).
Petroleum Derived Base
Common petroleum-derived ingredients found in lip products include:
Petrolatum (also known as petroleum jelly or mineral oil jelly) – Used as a moisturizing agent.
Mineral Oil – A byproduct of petroleum used as a lubricant and to lock in moisture.
Paraffin Wax – A petroleum-derived wax used in lip balms and glosses for texture and consistency.
Microcrystalline Wax – A refined petroleum-based wax used to thicken lip products.
Polybutene – A petroleum-based synthetic polymer used as a binder and gloss agent in lip products.
Ozokerite – A naturally occurring mineral wax refined from petroleum, used to enhance texture and viscosity.
Ceresin – A petroleum-derived wax used to stabilize and thicken products.
Isoparaffin – A type of petroleum distillate used as a solvent and texture enhancer in lip products.
These ingredients are commonly used because they are inexpensive, create a smooth texture, and have long shelf lives, but they also raise concerns due to the potential contamination with harmful substances like PAHs.
Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are classified as carcinogens by organizations like the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). PAHs can form during the refining process of petroleum, and studies have shown that some levels of these harmful chemicals can be found in personal care products, including lip balms and glosses. One study published in the Journal of Applied Toxicology found that mineral oil hydrocarbons, often derived from petroleum, can accumulate in human fat tissue and the liver after regular use, potentially leading to chronic health effects .
Colorants
Many Color Index (CI) dyes used in cosmetics, including lip products, are derived from petroleum and synthetic sources. These synthetic dyes are often referred to as "coal tar dyes" or "petroleum-based dyes" because they are produced from petrochemicals. Common petroleum-derived CI dyes used in cosmetics include:
CI 19140 (FD&C Yellow No. 5 or Tartrazine) – A synthetic yellow dye often used in lipsticks and lip glosses.
CI 15850 (D&C Red No. 6, No. 7) – Red synthetic dyes frequently found in lip products.
CI 45410 (D&C Red No. 28) – A synthetic red dye used in lip gloss and balms.
CI 42090 (FD&C Blue No. 1) – A blue synthetic dye used to achieve certain shades in lip products.
CI 47005 (D&C Yellow No. 10) – A petroleum-derived yellow dye used in a variety of cosmetics.
These dyes can pose health concerns due to potential contaminants, including heavy metals and other byproducts from the manufacturing process. Moreover, some studies have raised concerns about skin irritation and possible carcinogenic effects from prolonged exposure to certain petroleum-derived synthetic dyes. This is one of the hardest things to avoid because it is in almost everything and brands rarely test for contaminants in their lake dyes. I don’t completely rule out a product if it has it, but I definitely note it and don’t reach for it on the daily.
Fragrance / Aroma
Almost every lip product has some type of fragrance / aroma listed on the ingredients list. Companies are not required to disclose what ingredients make up ‘fragrance’ because it is considered IP. It can include up to 3000 chemicals, many of which are endocrine disruptors. There are some brands that will denote the fragrance is “naturally derived.” Some clean brands will not include fragrance and instead list ingredients like “peppermint extract” and “vanilla planifolia extract.” I stay away from the standard “fragrance” and look for products that are naturally flavored. I am ok with products that say they have “naturally derived” fragrance / aroma in lip products and I also am generally ok with products when the company is an EU Brand. The EU has much stricter regulations around what ingredients are allowed and they also have “clean” standards that brands like Clarins and Dior strictly follow for aroma.
Preservatives
Phenoxyethanol is going to be the one you see the most and you also want to AVOID. It is a potential endocrine disruptor and not something you want to be consuming. Other common preservatives in lip products that you want to avoid include parabens (Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, BHT, BHA, formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Quaternium-15), tocopheryl acetate, and sodium benzoate.
Product Recommendations
Best Overall: contains no titanium dioxide, dyes, synthetic fragrance / aroma, or preservatives.
Dr. Lipp Tint - this is a very sheer berry gloss that is tinted with fruit / veggie powder
Dr. Lipp Balm - this is a clear lip mask. Similar to Laniege lip masks
100% Pure Fruit Pigmented Lip Gloss - this is a thin, milky gloss that has more pigment to it. I prefer the nude colors.
The rest of the items on the list have non-petroleum bases, but do contain lake dye colorants. I use them occasionally, but try to reach for the above on an everyday basis!