My Standard of ‘Clean’
First and foremost, everyone’s journey and standard of clean is different and always evolving. My idea of ‘clean’ was entirely different a year ago than what it is today, and it will likely be very different a year from now. But as it stands today, these are my ingredient standards for all the products I recommend and use:
The Absolute No’s:
Phthalates – Found in nail polish, hair spray, and perfumes to enhance fragrance and flexibility.
Parabens – Used as preservatives in shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and makeup (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben).
Phenoxyethanol – A preservative found in perfumes, skin creams, and other cosmetics.
Triclosan – An antibacterial agent commonly found in toothpaste, deodorants, and soaps.
Benzophenones (e.g., oxybenzone, avobenzone) – Found in sunscreens and products with UV filters to protect against sun damage.
Octinoxate – Another UV filter used in sunscreens, lip balms, and foundations.
Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (e.g., quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin) – Present in shampoos, conditioners, and body washes.
Toluene – Found in nail polish and hair dye, used as a solvent to create a smooth finish.
Resorcinol – Found in hair dyes and bleach, this chemical helps in the coloring process.
Ethanolamines (DEA, TEA) – Used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in shampoos, body washes, and facial cleansers.
BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) – A similar preservative used in cosmetics like lip products and moisturizers.
Ethoxylated Ingredients (PEGs) – Found in creams, lotions, and cosmetics to help soften skin and thicken products.
Propylparaben – A paraben found in makeup, skin creams, and other personal care products.
Siloxanes (Cyclotetrasiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane) – Found in deodorants, moisturizers, and hair care products for smooth application.
Alkylphenols (e.g., Nonylphenol) – Found in hair dyes and hair straightening products.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) / Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) – Surfactants used in shampoos, cleansers, and toothpaste.
Triclocarban – An antibacterial agent found in bar soaps.
Methylisothiazolinone – A preservative found in leave-on and rinse-off products like shampoos, conditioners, and makeup.
PFOA/PFAS – Used in cosmetics for long-lasting wear, such as waterproof mascara and long-wear lipstick.
Retinyl Palmitate – A form of vitamin A used in anti-aging creams, but can act as an endocrine disruptor in some contexts.
Aluminum Compounds – Found in some deodorants and antiperspirants.
Synthetic Musks (Nitro and Polycyclic musks) – Used in fragrances and perfumes, known to persist in the environment and disrupt endocrine function.
Why should you care: A comment I get often is “the dose makes the poison. There isn’t enough of the ingredient to kill you. That’s why there are safety standards for ingredients.”
Here is my answer:
The baseline for safety shouldn’t be death
I fear the “standards” are what brought us here
Endocrine disruptors act completely differently than normal “toxins”. Endocrine disruptors need much smaller amounts to impact the body than normal toxins because they mimic or interfere with hormones, which operate at very low concentrations within the endocrine system. Hormones act as chemical messengers, regulating critical bodily functions like growth, metabolism, reproduction, and development. Even tiny changes in hormone levels can significantly affect these processes. Endocrine disruptors can either mimic natural hormones, block hormone receptors, or alter hormone production, causing imbalances. Unlike normal toxins that require larger doses to cause harm through cellular damage, endocrine disruptors can trigger significant biological effects at much lower doses because of their ability to disrupt finely tuned hormonal signaling pathways. If you are still wondering “how small of an amount actually makes a difference?” The answer is parts per billion or a drop of water in an Olympic sized swimming pool.
Things that I occasionally let slide and why:
Lake Dyes: Lake dyes are pigments that result from combining color additives with insoluble substances like salts, making them water-insoluble. These dyes are popular in makeup, lipsticks, and other cosmetics due to their vibrant colors and long-lasting properties. Pretty much any product you use - lipstick, blush, gloss that are any shade of pink contain these dyes. However, they can pose potential health risks due to contaminants and the nature of synthetic colorants. Brands are able to test for these contaminants, but most don’t.
Why Lake Dyes Can Be Toxic:
Heavy Metal Contaminants: Lake dyes, particularly synthetic ones, can be contaminated with heavy metals such as lead, mercury, and arsenic during the manufacturing process. These metals are toxic and can accumulate in the body over time, leading to adverse health effects such as hormonal disruption, neurological damage, and organ toxicity.
Petroleum-Derived Ingredients: Many lake dyes are derived from petroleum or coal tar, which can contain toxic impurities. These can include polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are known carcinogens.
Endocrine Disruptors: Some synthetic dyes, including certain lake dyes, have been linked to endocrine disruption, interfering with the body’s hormone systems. This can contribute to reproductive issues, developmental problems, and increased risk of certain cancers.
Skin Irritation and Allergies: For some people, lake dyes may cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, or sensitivity, especially when used in cosmetics applied directly to the skin, such as foundations or lipsticks.
My personal take: Lake dyes are in almost every cosmetic - they are unavoidable if you are wearing makeup. Even the ‘cleanest’ brands at Sephora and Ulta do not say whether or not they test for contaminants, so I just assume they do not. I still use products with these ingredients, but I am more cautious with products with a direct path for toxins i.e. eyes and lips. I will still recommend lip products with these colorants in it, since there really are no glosses on the market without it, but on a day to day basis, I try to opt for something that is all natural like a Dr. Lipp gloss.
2. Titanium Dioxide (in lip products): Titanium dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that looks like white powder and is used as a lightener and opacifier makeup.
Why Lake Dyes Can Be Toxic:
Nano vs Non Nano: In skin products, titanium dioxide is generally safe as long as it is non-nano. Non-nano TiO₂ particles are larger and remain on the skin’s surface, providing UV protection without being absorbed into the body, reducing the risk of toxicity or cellular damage. Nano Titanium Dioxide is used less in makeup and is legally required to be labeled as nano on the ingredients list so you can easily spot it. Studies on non-nano titanium dioxide typically show that it passes through the digestive system without being absorbed, thus presenting a much lower risk for cellular or DNA damage.
Genotoxicity: However in 2022, the EU banned titanium dioxide as a food additive in both human and dog food due to concerns about its potential health risks, especially its use as a food additive. The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) re-evaluated titanium dioxide and found that they could not rule out the possibility of it being genotoxic, meaning it might damage DNA and potentially lead to cancer.
My personal take: Nano is a no-go all the time. Non-nano I’m completely fine with in any skin products - sunscreen, blush, concealer, etc. With lip products, I prefer a product that doesn’t have it, but I will still use ones that will. There aren’t enough studies for me showing absorption of non-nano titanium dioxide to make me never want to use it again.